Once in a blue moon somebody with enough taste/cash/enthusiasm - select as appropriate - visits the shop and buys a few bottles of mixed German beauties, usually while gently chiding us for not having a wider selection. We only ever sympathise - we'd love to stock more, but the inner accountant that needs to live inside every wine merchant puts in a rare appearance at list writing time, common sense prevails, as it must, and our modest choice remains pertinently trimmed. We make no apology for leaning heavily on Dr Loosen - Ernie is one of the world's top winemakers. Fritz Hasselbach of the Gunderloch Estate provides richer fare, delicious with Thai food and equally brilliant in the cellar but we need rather more volume to justify adding another couple of estates. There are a couple of new lines, both from top estates and Riesling fans will be depriving themselves sorely if they do not try these.